I�d decided to indulge myself in a little fishing. The next destination on my itinerary was a campground on the Mad River, some seventy miles north of Covelo. There�s a direct route on the map that I�d never tried, a thin red squiggle in my California atlas-gazetteer unbroken by significant towns and mostly bisecting topographic contour lines�meaning ups and downs, twists and turns, exactly the kind of driving challenge I relish....